The porters had requested that the normal portering day be lengthened
to get them over the Shipton Col, in effect completing 2 days
in one. We team members were carrying only light rucsacs and therefore
had no objection but we did wonder if the porters, some of whom
were carrying 50 kg, were biting off more than they could chew.
Once again we were rewarded with stunning views as we left our
overnight camp, following the river as it descended for 700m before
the long steep climb back up to the Shipton Col (4100m). From
the back it was an impressive sight watching our caravan of 90
porters weaving its way down the valley and into the distance,
the river thundering alongside. The weather deteriorated as we
climbed up through the forest and by the time we reached the Shipton
Col it was raining heavily. The porters pulled plastic bags and
sheets over their heads and loads in an effort to gain some protection
from the downpour. On the col itself the snows of 7 weeks previous
had all gone and in places it was difficult to remember it as
the same place. Now back at 4000m we were all feeling tired and
the journey to the small lodge at Kalme seemed never ending. However,
it did finally end - what a welcome sight. As our tents arrived
the rain got heavier and the camping spots quickly turned into
a swamp - much like they had during the walk-in. As our porters
and staff refreshed themselves with Chang (Millet Beer) and Raksi
we all crammed into the lodge for tea and evening meal - some
respite from the continuing downpour. The rain did not let up
throughout the night and we were treated to a most spectacular
thunderstorm at midnight - the noise echoing around the valley
for several minutes and lightning striking very close to our location.
However, our Cosmos Tents stood up very well and the storm had
cleared by the morning.
