The porters had all arrived at Base Camp by late afternoon on
29 May. It was therefore no surprise that at 05.30 on 30th they
began gathering at Base Camp, anxious to be allocated their individual
load and to get started on the trail. We had arranged bed tea
for 06.30 but there was little point in trying to get further
sleep due to the noise in the vicinity. Our Sirdar and his support
staff were extremely methodical in recording the names of all
the porters, allocating them particular loads and recording details
of what they had been allocated to carry. Most importantly, the
weight of each barrel was also recorded in order that the correct
level of payment could be made at the end of the trek.
Rather frustratingly there was no cloud covering Makalu and it
appeared that the upper winds had dropped significantly. We knew
that the French guides were somewhere high on the mountain but
from Base Camp we were unsighted as to their progress.
After breakfast the team members packed their remaining kit whilst
the remaining loads were allocated. The whole process of allocating
loads took approximately 3 hours, not uncommon on the first day
of the trek. With many of the porters having the same name details
of their village also had to be recorded to avoid confusion.
The trek down to Yangle Kharka provided us all with an indication
of how different the walk-out would be from the walk-in. The river
was significantly higher due to being filled by the melt waters
from the glaciers, the lower valley full of blooming rhododendrons
and marigolds and the afternoon rains set in - a warning that
the monsoon was very close.
By late afternoon we were all relaxing in the thicker air at 3800m
- the lowest altitude that we had been at for nearly 2 months.