Today started with bright weather and blue skies. Val, Andy and the Sherpas at Intermediate Camp were up at 0500hrs and making the most of the conditions. By the time the 0700hrs radio call occurred they were well on their way to the end of the fixed ropes (6350m) and hoping to assess the conditions for further progress. The team at Base Camp provided an update on the weather forecast we had received from Headquarters Strike Command in UK, which pointed towards similar weather to recent days - basically further falls of snow. The team at Camp 1, Colin and Ade, requested a further update at 0900hrs to help assess whether it was worth moving up to the intermediate camp.

During the early part of the morning the lead team were experiencing deep snow and quite cold conditions. However, by 0745 hrs the sun had come round on to the fresh snow, giving a distinct feeling of instability. Following a reassessment of the conditions, with the potential for having to reverse this section of the ridge much later in the day, the decision was made to turn back to Intermediate Camp.

Cloud began to boil up in the familiar cycle, obscuring much of the valley. All the signs pointed to further snowfalls, further loading the already unstable slopes. With a poor forecast for the coming 2 days, including strong winds, it was decided at the 9am call to bring the lead team down to Camp 1 where they were joined by Colin and Ady for the return to Base Camp.

All team members are now back safely in Base Camp, resting, washing and considering what the weather is going to do next. The forecast is unfortunately mixed until Tuesday but we will recuperate and prepare ourselves to take advantage of any improvement.

Late afternoon we were visited by 2 members of the Norwegian team who have been climbing on the original French route on Makalu. They have sadly pulled the plug on their attempt due to heavy snow and illness. They are now walking out to Tumlingtar. Our Doctor provided a short notice free consultation (not usually available in UK) to one member of the team who was still experiencing some discomfort.