Main team - DIARY UPDATE FOR:
DAY 38 - THURSDAY 29 APRIL 2004
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Today has been another very frustrating day with the weather,
it started snowing at about 1100 and continued until dusk. The
guys at the top camp had a brief foray onto the ridge this morning
but were thwarted by knee deep snow which avalanched as they proceeded
along the ridge. So, Sam, Dave T, Chris and Uisdean descended
down to Base Camp, having spent 4 days up high.
Val and Andy headed up to the high camp in the hope that the snow
conditions might consolidate enough to make some progress over
the next few days and Colin and Ade are at camp1 with a view to
moving up to the high camp tomorrow.
We are really hoping for an improvement in the weather as soon
as possible, you cannot believe how frustrating our lack of progress
is!
Below we have included a feature about our equipment.
Dave T
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Chris and Uisdean After a hard day

Sam And Uisdean This morrning before the
snow

Uisdean Leading on the ridge
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Dave T and Chris At Camp Intermediate

Sam decending to BC
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Sportiva La Mons High altitude boot

Team member equiped for work on mountain
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EQUIPMENT FEATURE:
RAB WINDSUIT
One piece pertex windsuit made by RAB Equipment becomes
a key component of protection against the elements whilst
working on the mountain. Between camps all of the team members
will wear the suit, as it not only keeps out the snow and
wind but it is also very comfortable and practical for climbing
as it does not restrict movement.
Underneath the windsuit team members will wear a variety
of thermal and fleece clothing, however due to the high
workload this normally will not be too thick or warm. Each
member will be carrying a backup down jacket in case the
weather turns unexpectedly cold.
Finally the windsuit makes a great advertising board for
our sponsors!
SPORTIVA BOOTS AND THORLO SOCKS
Our footwear comprises the most advanced high altitude boots
available. The inner boot is lightweight, comfortable and
made from Thinsulate to keep our feet warm in extreme cold
temperatures. These will be worn over thick and warm loopstiched
Thorlo climbing socks.
The outer boot is again lightweight and designed for technical
climbing, whilst the sealed built-in gaiter keeps out snow
and moisture.
DMM CRAMPONS
Whilst the snow conditions are currently soft, it only takes
one section of firm snow or ice to make the going difficult
so crampons are worn almost all of the time. These easy
to fit step in crampons offer the security needed for safe
and efficient travel.
HARNESS
Team members are wearing a variety of standard climbing
harnesses. This allows security on the fixed rope sections.
In addition those leading out the ropes can do so with the
confidence they would have during any other style of climbing.
HB HELMET
During climbing, protection of the head is of maximum importance,
especially when climbing in mixed ground. When temperatures
rise rocks and ice can be loosened and released, this must
be guarded against.
CEBE SUNGLASSES/GOGGLES
Apart from looking cool, eye protection is absolutely essential
in snow conditions. Whilst the sun is out and conditions
calm sunglasses with high UV protection must be worn in
order to prevent severe eye damage as the reflection of
the sun on the snow is multiplied considerably. If the weather
turns worse the sunglasses will be replaced by goggles.
GLOVES
Along with toes, fingers are extremely prone to frostbite
on big mountains. Keeping fingers warm and able to operate
is essential for progress and comfort. Whilst there are
many large mitten options for high on the mountain we require
dexterity for technical climbing and rope fixing at this
stage. A hard wearing, leather palmed, insulated glove is
best for this type of work.
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