EXPEDITION DIARY

 

Main team - DIARY UPDATE FOR:

DAY 38 - THURSDAY 29 APRIL 2004

Today has been another very frustrating day with the weather, it started snowing at about 1100 and continued until dusk. The guys at the top camp had a brief foray onto the ridge this morning but were thwarted by knee deep snow which avalanched as they proceeded along the ridge. So, Sam, Dave T, Chris and Uisdean descended down to Base Camp, having spent 4 days up high.

Val and Andy headed up to the high camp in the hope that the snow conditions might consolidate enough to make some progress over the next few days and Colin and Ade are at camp1 with a view to moving up to the high camp tomorrow.

We are really hoping for an improvement in the weather as soon as possible, you cannot believe how frustrating our lack of progress is!

Below we have included a feature about our equipment.

Dave T

PHOTOGRAPHS

 


Chris and Uisdean After a hard day


Sam And Uisdean This morrning before the snow


Uisdean Leading on the ridge

 


Dave T and Chris At Camp Intermediate


Sam decending to BC


Sportiva La Mons High altitude boot


Team member equiped for work on mountain

EQUIPMENT FEATURE:

RAB WINDSUIT
One piece pertex windsuit made by RAB Equipment becomes a key component of protection against the elements whilst working on the mountain. Between camps all of the team members will wear the suit, as it not only keeps out the snow and wind but it is also very comfortable and practical for climbing as it does not restrict movement.
Underneath the windsuit team members will wear a variety of thermal and fleece clothing, however due to the high workload this normally will not be too thick or warm. Each member will be carrying a backup down jacket in case the weather turns unexpectedly cold.
Finally the windsuit makes a great advertising board for our sponsors!

SPORTIVA BOOTS AND THORLO SOCKS
Our footwear comprises the most advanced high altitude boots available. The inner boot is lightweight, comfortable and made from Thinsulate to keep our feet warm in extreme cold temperatures. These will be worn over thick and warm loopstiched Thorlo climbing socks.
The outer boot is again lightweight and designed for technical climbing, whilst the sealed built-in gaiter keeps out snow and moisture.

DMM CRAMPONS
Whilst the snow conditions are currently soft, it only takes one section of firm snow or ice to make the going difficult so crampons are worn almost all of the time. These easy to fit step in crampons offer the security needed for safe and efficient travel.

HARNESS
Team members are wearing a variety of standard climbing harnesses. This allows security on the fixed rope sections. In addition those leading out the ropes can do so with the confidence they would have during any other style of climbing.

HB HELMET
During climbing, protection of the head is of maximum importance, especially when climbing in mixed ground. When temperatures rise rocks and ice can be loosened and released, this must be guarded against.

CEBE SUNGLASSES/GOGGLES
Apart from looking cool, eye protection is absolutely essential in snow conditions. Whilst the sun is out and conditions calm sunglasses with high UV protection must be worn in order to prevent severe eye damage as the reflection of the sun on the snow is multiplied considerably. If the weather turns worse the sunglasses will be replaced by goggles.

GLOVES
Along with toes, fingers are extremely prone to frostbite on big mountains. Keeping fingers warm and able to operate is essential for progress and comfort. Whilst there are many large mitten options for high on the mountain we require dexterity for technical climbing and rope fixing at this stage. A hard wearing, leather palmed, insulated glove is best for this type of work.

 

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