Today has been a day of packing, preparations and contemplation. The normal expedition tasks of configuring loads and checking equipment were carried out in the relaxed surroundings of the summit hotel. Medical stores were prepared for the walk in, a system for storing and developing photos was worked out, visa extensions were ordered and it was finally established that the team is likely to be alone on the South East Ridge of Makalu, as to date no other permit application for the route has been approved. This was an exciting piece of news and today was the first time we were able to get definitive confirmation of exactly who was likely to be climbing where and when on Makalu this season. We have now all had a good chance to study the latest photographs of the South East Ridge of Makalu, gathered by the Advance Party as well as reading articles by the most recent ascensionists. All were imbued with a renewed repect for our objective and not a little trepidation at what is in store for us. This afternoon Neil Greenwood arrived to give a brief to both teams on the operation of our medical oxygen system and this later gave rise to a discussion within the Makalu team as to the relative merits of using bottled oxygen as a means of ascent above Camp 5. After some debate it was decided that we would continue as planned to only use the system as a contingency for medical emergencies and to remain true to our stated aim of achieving a lightweight ascent without use of bottled oxygen. The day was rounded off with a very successful cocktail party and bar-b-q, to which 24 British and Nepalese personalities were invited. Mr Keith Bloomfield, HM Ambassador to Nepal as well as Col Sharland, the Defence Attache attended the event alongside the 2 expedition Liaison Officers and our Sirdars Lima Temba and Laupa Sherpa (L.P.).

The Expedition Cocktail Party at the Summit Hotel