It is with the utmost disappointment that we have today taken the decision to abandon any attempt of reaching the summit of Makalu. The existing extremely unstable condition of the ridges and slopes on the mountain coupled with the current and forecast poor weather conditions do not permit access to our Camp 3 or progress higher up the mountain. With our departure date from Base Camp on 30 May drawing near any chance of launching a late summit bid is no longer practical.

Naturally, all members of the team are immensely disappointed that the recent period of extended poor weather, in particular heavy snowfall, has thwarted our chances of success. With Camp 3 in position at 7300m and rope extended beyond to 7500m we were in a strong position given a period of stable weather. However, the slopes to Camp 3 remain loaded with unstable fresh snow, in some places to a depth of 18 inches. These conditions are replicated on other areas of the mountain, with the ridge from intermediate camp to Camp 2 being extremely difficult going. Indeed, my own traverse of the ridge yesterday proved to be an arduous and extremely tiring experience, only made possible by the strength, tenacity and support of my 3 Sherpa companions.

Our efforts during the next 4 days will be directed at recovering as much of our equipment from the Camps on the mountain as possible. This will involve all members of the team revisiting the high camps, only abandoning equipment at camps that it is impractical to reach.

On behalf of all members of the team I would like to thank all those who have supported the expedition and those who have followed our progress on this website. Your many emails of encouragement, either direct or via our guest book have been greatly appreciated. We will continue to provide daily updates on our operations during the coming days, detailing the clear up progress.

Despite our best efforts we have been unable to reach the summit of this extremely challenging mountain. Makalu has not let down her guard, instead providing some arduous and very difficult climbing conditions. The route to Camp 2 over the subsidiary summit of Peak 3 (6800m) has itself provided a worthy and unexpected challenge, crossed on most occasions in extreme wind conditions. Unfortunately, this year Makalu, known locally as the 'Big Black One', has been rather whiter than anticipated.

Colin Scott
Expedition Leader