After the success of the last few days it was difficult to accept that the weather once again turned against us; the morning call to Dave B and Uisdean at Camp 2 revealed that during the night there had been heavy snow. The slopes between Camp 2 and Camp 3 were therefore loaded with snow and the potential avalanche threat was subsequently quite high. The team members and Sherpas had been above Base Camp for 6 days and the prospect of sitting out a further day at Camp 2 did not appeal. Continued snow would also make the journey back over Peak 3 very difficult. With regret the intention of pushing beyond Camp 3 towards the Gendarme was therefore not practical and the tired team descended back to Base Camp along for a well earned rest.
Unfortunately the forecast for the next few days is for the unsettled weather to continue. However, having regrouped the whole team, we will ensure that we are ready to take advantage of the next gap in the weather. Rest assured morale is still high, particularly since we are currently sat around the table, enjoying a couple of malts and the banter is at its usual standard!

Although we still have ample time to climb the mountain the preparations for our walk out to Tumlingtar are already occupying the mind of our Sirdar. It will take approximately 100 porters to move our climbing equipment and Base Camp kitchen back down the valley and therefore one of our support staff has already gone down the valley to begin hiring the necessary staff. The porters will arrive at Base Camp on 29 May in preparation for our departure on 30 May.

Food for the second half of our walk-out has already been taken to Tashigoan together with items of equipment not required.

The bad weather also brought a halt to our Patron's intention of climbing the ridge towards Camp 1 in order to get some views an photographs of the surrounding peaks.

Colin Scott
Expedition Leader