EXPEDITION DIARY

 

Main team - DIARY UPDATE FOR:

DAY 54 - SATURDAY 15 MAY 2004

The pre-breakfast call from Camp 2 announced that the team had spent a very disturbed night - the tents being battered by the wind throughout. Two of the team were feeling somewhat under the weather, a combination of the altitude and lack of sleep. However, two of the team, along with 2 of the Sherpas were feeling up to the challenge of the climb to Camp 3. From Base Camp we could watch their progress through the binoculars as they made their way steadily up the fixed ropes towards the high point. Progress at this altitude was naturally slow and the 4 climbers were spread out across the various stages of the fixed rope.

Meanwhile, in support of the activities higher on the mountain, 2 members of the team carried lengths of fixed rope from Base Camp to Camp 1. Our Sherpa, Tenzing, descended from Camp 2 to collect this rope and take it back to the high camp in readiness for it being taken higher tomorrow. On reaching Camp 1 Ade and Stu spent a short period of time repairing the flysheet to one of the Quasar tents which was now needed higher up. Bodge tape, cycle puncture repair glue and a some neat stitches were used to complete the repair, which will now hopefully withstand the winds at the more exposed sites.

Throughout the morning, porters in support of our Patron's trek were steadily arriving at Base Camp with their loads. After the final climb of the morning General Sir Sam Cowan and Lady Anne arrived just in time for lunch, looking extremely healthy after their 12 day trek. They will stay at our Base Camp for 6 days, watching the final stages of our climb unfold.

As lunch concluded we received a radio call from Dave Bunting to say that he and the Sherpas had reached Camp 3 and they were establishing the camp ready for possible occupation tomorrow evening. The site is sheltered from the wind, nestling just below a serac on the Tibetan side of the ridge. His exhaustion was obvious on the radio and he announced that he would soon be descending back down to Camp 2, hopefully beating the snow shower that was just starting.

It is hoped that the 2 other members of the team, Dave Tait and Aleck, will have recovered enough by tomorrow to make their way up to Camp 3 and to commence fixing rope up the fairly straightforward snow ridge that lies above. Providing that the wind stays relatively light progress to the Black Gendarme should be relatively quick.

Colin Scott
Expedition Leader

PHOTOGRAPHS


Camp 2 (6650m).


Camp 2 (Sherpa standing) with the SE ridge in the background.

 


Team member descending to Camp 2 from Peak 3.


Dave Tait arriving at Camp 2 - very tired.

 

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