Main team - DIARY UPDATE FOR:
DAY 54 - SATURDAY 15 MAY 2004
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The pre-breakfast call from Camp 2 announced that the team had
spent a very disturbed night - the tents being battered by the
wind throughout. Two of the team were feeling somewhat under the
weather, a combination of the altitude and lack of sleep. However,
two of the team, along with 2 of the Sherpas were feeling up to
the challenge of the climb to Camp 3. From Base Camp we could
watch their progress through the binoculars as they made their
way steadily up the fixed ropes towards the high point. Progress
at this altitude was naturally slow and the 4 climbers were spread
out across the various stages of the fixed rope.
Meanwhile, in support of the activities higher on the mountain,
2 members of the team carried lengths of fixed rope from Base
Camp to Camp 1. Our Sherpa, Tenzing, descended from Camp 2 to
collect this rope and take it back to the high camp in readiness
for it being taken higher tomorrow. On reaching Camp 1 Ade and
Stu spent a short period of time repairing the flysheet to one
of the Quasar tents which was now needed higher up. Bodge tape,
cycle puncture repair glue and a some neat stitches were used
to complete the repair, which will now hopefully withstand the
winds at the more exposed sites.
Throughout the morning, porters in support of our Patron's trek
were steadily arriving at Base Camp with their loads. After the
final climb of the morning General Sir Sam Cowan and Lady Anne
arrived just in time for lunch, looking extremely healthy after
their 12 day trek. They will stay at our Base Camp for 6 days,
watching the final stages of our climb unfold.
As lunch concluded we received a radio call from Dave Bunting
to say that he and the Sherpas had reached Camp 3 and they were
establishing the camp ready for possible occupation tomorrow evening.
The site is sheltered from the wind, nestling just below a serac
on the Tibetan side of the ridge. His exhaustion was obvious on
the radio and he announced that he would soon be descending back
down to Camp 2, hopefully beating the snow shower that was just
starting.
It is hoped that the 2 other members of the team, Dave Tait and
Aleck, will have recovered enough by tomorrow to make their way
up to Camp 3 and to commence fixing rope up the fairly straightforward
snow ridge that lies above. Providing that the wind stays relatively
light progress to the Black Gendarme should be relatively quick.
Colin Scott
Expedition Leader
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Camp 2 (6650m).
Camp 2 (Sherpa standing) with the SE ridge in the background.
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Team member descending to Camp 2 from Peak 3.
Dave Tait arriving at Camp 2 - very tired.
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