Once again the strong wind was a feature of the day. The team at Camp 2 reported extremely strong winds blasting across the col, and suggested that the intended move by the Sherpas from Intermediate Camp, across the very exposed summit of Peak 3, was not a viable option. This view was supported by those at Intermediate Camp who were experiencing far stronger winds than normal. With the requirement to get more fixed rope up to Camp 2 and eventually Camp 3 the decision was taken to send the Sherpas down to Camp 1 to help with the movement of stores. The team members already at Camp 1 planned to check all of the anchors between Camp 1 and Intermediate Camp and to strip out any sections of fixed rope deemed non-essential. This rope would be moved up the mountain for reuse higher up. As the wind whipped up spindrift and the occasional large chunk of ice the Sherpas gladly accepted the option to descend, returning later to Intermediate Camp with several lengths of 9mm climbing rope and 7mm rope for fixing.

Whilst these activities were taking place lower on the mountain our 2 climbers at Camp 2 took advantage of a short lull in the wind mid-morning to make their descent to Base Camp for a well earned rest. Leaving their high altitude equipment at Camp 2 they travelled light and quick over the summit of Peak 3 and down the knife-edge ridge. They passed the Sherpas at Intermediate Camp and the 4 team climbers approaching the final climb to that camp.

The 4 team members and 3 Sherpas will attempt to reach Camp 2 tomorrow and then climb the fixed ropes with tents and equipment to establish Camp 3 the following day.

The route showing Camps 2, Camp 3 and the height of the Black Gendarme (the next obstacle).

Information:

Since we established Camp 1 some weeks ago the area has seen a major transformation. Several tents were sited in a sheltered spot on a platform of fairly deep snow. As we reported earlier in these bulletins we received several continuous days of snowfall, which required us to dig the tents out during each outing to Camp 1. However, since the snowfall stopped the temperature has risen several degrees, resulting in a major thaw at Camp 1. All of the snow under the tents has now melted, leaving them pitched on large uneven rocks. The snow and ice that once held them firmly in situ is now gone and they are tied down to rocks. Puddles of water now abound during the warmest part of the day, returning to ice at night.

This thaw has also affected the early part of the route between Camp 1 and Intermediate Camp, although the change is far less dramatic as we gain height. In many places the snow has given way to bare ice. The melt has made the daily check of snow or ice anchor points even more important than usual, with many snow stakes and ice screws almost melting out completely.

On the positive side the thaw has made journey to Camp 1 easier as the route is completely clear of snow.