Following yesterdays progress towards the summit of Peak 3 Ben and Colin set off from the intermediate camp at 7am with the aim of reaching the summit. Although the skies were clear the wind was extreme, making for very cold going from the outset. Face masks were essential to prevent wind burn and double mitts were needed to ensure fingers remained warm and useable. Despite the strong wind the route to the top of the existing fixed ropes was relatively straight forward, the wind having scoured the ridge free of loose snow. At this early stage only one Sherpa, Neema, was in support, helping to move the coils of fixed rope for use higher on the ridge. On reaching yesterdays high point Ben immediately set about climbing the route above, placing snow stakes as intermediate anchors at suitable intervals. Despite the wind-chill progress was steady, overcoming some steep and narrow sections of the ridge as they presented themselves. Further rope and snow anchors were brought forward by the remaining Sherpas, Pema and Tenzing, allowing the lead pair to continue fixing. Ian and Dick, setting off some hours behind the lead pair, climbed the route and checked the existing anchor points, upgrading as required.

After several hours of exposure to the unrelenting wind and bitter temperatures the summit of Peak 3 was reached. A snow stake was driven into the snow at the high point and all members began to descend back to the relative shelter of Intermediate Camp. Ben, Colin, Ian and Dick continued the long descent to Base Camp, replaced at Intermediate Camp by Dave B, Dave T, Uisdean and Aleck. Today success marked the culmination of significant effort in far from ideal climbing conditions. It is hoped that the new lead team will be able to complete the final part of the route to Camp 2 tomorrow.

Colin Scott
Expedition Leader.