Ruru to Khandbari

It was now clear that we would be in Tumlingtar ahead of schedule but we remained unsure as to the likelihood of being able to bring our flights forward to Kathmandu. Despite early morning rain the mood of the porters was good, aware that this was the last day as from Khandbari we could move our stores by road. Everyone was away from the school by 07.30, following the trail down through the forest. The wet weather had brought out the leeches and it was not long before we were all noticing the tell tale smears of blood on our legs and arms. The leech injects an anti-coagulant as soon as it touches the skin which is incredibly effective and therefore the small wounds take a long time to stop bleeding. Despite being a more popular trade route the trail through the forest was in most places incredibly muddy, slippery and narrow and after 3 hours we were all pleased to reach the more open paths that led on to Khandbari. We were steadily losing height and at lunchtime the rain stopped, opening out views of Khandbari and the villages below. The trail was now much drier and wider, making for easy and fast going down the hill and we reached our night stop by mid afternoon. As a campsite our Sirdar had chosen grounds surrounding the local Ghompa (monastery) and as ever our team of support staff were quick to get things arranged. This was the final leg for the porters and all of the loads were checked in as they arrived to ensure that everything was in order. It is customary to tip the Porters (a days wages for every week worked) in addition to their daily pay. Importantly, they are also paid by Porter day (the distance traditionally covered each day) rather than by the number of days actually taken. The whole process of working out what is due to each individual takes some time but eventually the names are read out and the Porters come forward to collect their wages and tips.

In an attempt to encourage expeditions not to leave litter and garbage at Base Camps a refundable $6000 garbage deposit had to be paid when we collected our climbing permit. We had brought out all of our rubbish, gas canisters, used batteries and tin cans and now needed to present them to the officials in Khandbari and request a letter from them to show to the Ministry of Tourism in Kathmandu - only with this letter would we get our deposit back. The Sirdar and Expedition Leader presented themselves and the garbage to the National Park officials, thankfully obtaining the necessary paperwork. The Kathmandu Ministry of Tourism end has yet to be tackled.