The Main team of 14 experienced Service mountaineers will climb the South East Ridge of Makalu (8463m), the world's 5th highest mountain. The team will make the climb during the pre-monsoon season of 2004 and will be attempting to reach the summit without the use of bottled oxygen and with minimal Sherpa support. A very strong team of Service mountaineers has been selected; many of who already have considerable high altitude expedition experience.
The Teams will fly from UK to Kathmandu and then on to Tumlingtar from
where the walk in to Base Camp will start. Makalu is situated within the
Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area, an area of 2330 sq km
containing some of the richest and most diverse pockets of plants and
animals in Nepal.
The Trek to Base Camp will take almost 2 weeks during which the team will
travel through the regions remote mountain scenery. Starting at the airstrip
altitude of 483m the trail follows the Arun River until breaking away
from the river to enter the National Park at Sedua. The physiological
process of acclimatisation to high altitude will begin as the team slowly
ascends to Base Camp at 4800m.
The South East Ridge of Makalu is the longest ridge on the mountain and its steep and narrow profile will present a most significant challenge. From Base Camp on the Barun Glacier at 4800m the team will climb through or round the icefall and up to the South Col overlooking Tibet at 6600m before following the South Esat Ridge in its entirety to the summit at 8463m. In addition to coping with the extremes of altitude and weather the team will have to overcome the major rock obstacle known as the "Black Gendarme", which guards the ridge at 7400m. Beyond the Gendarme the narrow ridge crosses a subsidiary summit at 8010m and drops to a saddle before rising steadily to the impressive summit. The team will aim to establish a series of camps on the mountain before launching summit bids from the highest camp, probably in mid to late May.
